Rosehip seed oil is a great addition to any skin care product, particularly as we start to age.  Rosehip seed oil is wonderful for dry and aging skin and is a useful addition if you are designing products for this.  If this is something that is of interest to you, the article, Wrinkles and Essential Oils has more information.

Rosehip Seed (Rosa rubiginosa)

Family: Rosaceae

Description: Rosa rubiginosa, also known as sweetbriar rose, is a wild deciduous shrub that is native to Europe and western Asia.    This dense shrub grows to around 2 meters high and across with stems that have many hooked prickles.  The foliage has a strong apple-like aroma, with pinnate leaves and flowers that are produced in clusters of 2 to 7 blooms.  Rosehip seed oil is also produced from Rosa canina, also known as the dog rose.  This wild deciduous shrub is native to Europe, northwest Africa and Western Asia. This shrub is around 1 to 5 meters in height, and is covered in small sharp, hooked prickles.  Its flowers are generally pale pink, but can vary between a deep pink and white.

History Folklore:  Tea made from the hips of the Sweetbriar rose is very popular and considered by many to be a healthy way to get their daily dose of vitamin C.  During the second World War, the British relied on rose hips and hops as their sources of vitamins A and C.  In Chile and Argentina it is known as “Rosa Mosqueta” and is found growing wild around the Andes.   This species is an invasive species in southeast Australia.

During the second World War, Rosa canina was planted in Victory Gardens throughout the United States. It’s flower is one of the national symbols of Romania.

Rosehips contain a high concentration of vitamin C ranging from 0.24 – 1.25%.  Rosehips are mainly used as a source of natural vitamin C.  They are also widely used as a herb tea ingredient, or in capsules and tablets as a source of vitamin C. (Leung, Foster).

Harvest: The hips are left on the plant and generally harvest a week after the first frost.  They should then be processed as soon as possible after harvesting.

Carrier Oil

Extraction: A golden, reddish colour oil is cold pressed from the seeds of the fruit of the wild rose bush.  The aroma is slightly reminiscent of castor oil.  This oil absorbs into the skin well, but it can be very heavy when used on its own.  It is also a relatively unstable oil.

Shelf Life: 6 – 9 months

Cautions: Avoid with oily skin.

Actions: Rosehip seed oil has regenerative and nourishing properties and can directly benefit the skin.  The Vitamin A content helps increase elastin content, while it’s Vitamin E and Vitamin C content may help to delay the onset of skin aging.  This carrier is used to maintain the texture and softness of the skin.

Uses: Rosehip seed oil is excellent for dry  and damaged skin.  A useful carrier for Eczema and Psoriasis.  It is used in preparations designed to smooth lines and wrinkles, repair damaged tissue and fade age spots.  It has also been successfully used to improve burns and facial wrinkles, as well as ulcerated wounds.

A study done by Valerón-Almazán, Pedro et al. “Evolution of Post-Surgical Scars Treated with Pure Rosehip Seed Oil.” (2015), demonstrated that the preparation containing rosehip seed oil was useful for cosmetic improvement on erythema, discoloration and atrophy of post-surgical skin scars, getting a better overall evolution and appearance thereof.

Regulatory Status: GRAS (§182.20)

References
Bartram’s Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine, Thomas Bartram, 1995,1998
Stacey Dugliss-Wesselman, The Home Apothecary, 2013
Jan Kusmirek, Liquid Sunshine, Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy, 2002
Julia Lawless, The Complete Aromatherapy & Essential Oils Sourcebook, 2017
Leung and Foster, Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients used in Food, Drugs and Cosmetics, 1996
Susan M Parker, Power of the Seed, Your guide to oils for health & beauty, 2014
Len Price, Carrier Oils for Aromatherapy and Massage, 1999
Danielle Sage, the Aromatherapy Beauty Guide, 2017